The timer also offers Pause functionality. If you want to start again and set timer for 45 seconds or set alarm for 45 seconds, just press the "reset" button.The volume of alarm is dependent on the device volume so make sure your device sound is on and working.When the 45 seconds timer runs down to zero, alarm will start ringing.Just press the "start" button and your seconds timer will start the countdown. When you need a timer with pre-set 45 seconds, like checking body temperature or pulse or playing a round of a game, you need a 45 seconds timer that’s quick, easy to use, simple to access and quick to work. Unlike the regular timer alarm clocks which you can find here, (Link) this one saves you some time…because every second counts. This web-based 45 seconds timer is easy and simple online second countdown timer clock with alarm. The other thing I noticed is the idle fuel pressure is 32 PSI at 17” of vacuum, and rises to 40 if the vacuum line is removed from the regulator, which seems about 3 PSI high, probably not helping.45 seconds timer … forty five seconds at a time. Anyone know if this sensor is supplied through the same 5V regulator on the ECU board as the TPS? It appears that the ECU is at fault, as high resistance in the wiring would cause a lower voltage at the sensor. With this in the circuit, the voltage was just over 3.0V at 32 deg F, and the engine started and idled fine. I calculated a 5000 ohm resistor in parallel would put the voltage at 3.1 closest I had was a 4.7K (which actually measured a tad over 4.8K). The 3.8v would make the ECU think the engine was somewhere below 0F degrees, which in turn would cause the over fueling. Then I checked the voltage with the key on which was over 3.8v(should be 3.1v). I made up a short test harness that plugs between the EFI harness and the temperature sensor that has an additional plug that I can use to add a resistor in parallel with the sensor and measure the voltage that the ECU is seeing.įirst I measured the coolant temp sensor resistance it was 5660 ohms at 32 deg F- nearly exactly what the V12 Focus manual says. Well, I have identified the issue, at least in part. To figure out the resistor I needed - I used this website - and then used the reference table from the Workshop Manual to determine the resistance at a given temperature. fitting the resistor was easier than sending the ECU to England. I have an AJ6 Super Enhanced ECU fitted and I just figured my cold start calibration table must be out. Although it does have to crank for about 2 seconds to start now. This has made my car much easier to drive when cold and more economical all around. It also makes it think it’s warmer across the entire range, but this is an inverse scale, so while the difference at cold is around 20 degrees C and when hot is only around 3 degrees C. In the end, I fitted a 2K (I think) ohm resistor in parallel across the CTS signal, which makes the ECU think it’s warmer than it is on start-up. I also tested my AAV and modified it to get more air when cold. I replaced and tested the CTS both at the engine and in the trunk to validate whether or not I had an issue with it, or the wiring, to no result. Once the ECU detected some heat in the engine via the CTS (around 50 degrees C), it would reduce the amount of fueling. It would start on half a crank of the starter, but then be overfueled for the first 3 minutes, but not enough to stall out.
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